BADDIES Excerpts from our Newsletters Time to expose another Baddie which is …… MINERAL OIL as used in Cosmetics. This is the top moisturising ingredient for face creams, suntan lotions, hand & body lotions, lipsticks, shaving creams as well as similar baby products. The big manufacturers love the stuff --- it is colourless, odourless, tasteless and VERY CHEAP. It also binds well with other ingredients to form a smooth, creamy lotion. Mineral Oil softens the skin by holding water in. A film is formed over the skin to lock moisture in. However, it also traps in toxins and waste while hindering normal skin respiration as it keeps Oxygen out. The retained toxins help encourage acne and other skin disorders. Toxins have also been found in lymphoid and breast tissue of breast cancer sufferers. The slow down in skin function results in premature aging of the skin. Mineral Oil is Motor Oil that has been more refined. As far back as 1980 there was concern about the carcinogenic properties of some mineral oil based products. Small doses given to rats meant that they died. By the way, the rats never gave their permission. Why not test on the faceless ones who run the cosmetic industry? Mineral oil can be contaminated with cancer causing PAH s (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons.) These are molecules derived from coal, tar and oil and are known to be cancer causing. Apparently, the Aromatic bit is slightly wrong as they Stink !! Mineral Oil is so very cheap, available and is a good emulsifier. Just what the big boys crave. When you realise that mass produced Baby Oil is a form of Motor Oil with Fragrance ( another Dodgy character ) added, it all gets scary. Most skincare products contain this rubbish. The EU has not exactly covered itself in glory when it comes to sorting suspect ingredients out, but they look really good compared to the USA. In recent years the EU has banned 1100 chemicals from skincare products. The USA has put the block on just NINE !!. Does Big Business talk ? No, it SHOUTS ! Optical Brighteners And so to the Baddie as we highlight …… Optical Brighteners These are dyes that absorb light in the ultraviolet and violet parts of the electromagnetic spectrum, releasing the light to the blue area --- that's grabbed your attention, I bet! Don't nod off just yet, it gets more interesting. Basically, OBs make fabrics, paper, etc look brilliant white, while having little effect on cleanliness. Added to laundry detergents, they make clothes APPEAR cleaner. They have taken the place of the old fashioned " bluing" which did much the same job. Some of these brighteners can cause allergic reactions on contact with the skin. OBs are toxic to fish and cause bacterial mutations; not doing the planet much good, especially as they are slow to degrade. Also of much concern just now is how much residue they leave in Natural nappies. More and more mothers are reporting leaking and wicking in the nappies when washed in mainstream detergents. The chemicals in these products leave residues that stay on the fabrics, increasing the chances of being absorbed through the skin. Promises of "brighter" "cleaner" "whiter" etc on packets may well point to that packet being full of OBs. Look on the back label of any of the Supermarket Suspects and you will find a distinct lack of ingredient info. Look on the back of any Home Scents product and you will find every ingredient listed….all Good things. Optical Brighteners can be found in some cosmetics. When used to wash and condition grey or blonde hair, they help increase the sparkle. They are also used in face powders and eye make-up. As yet, the actual harm they do is not fully understood. Finally, this report gives a different slant to the problem. 9/4/2007 - EIELSON AIR FORCE BASE, Alaska - " Laundry additives known as "optical brighteners" should not be used for washing the Airman Battle Uniform. Laundry instructions for ABUs specify not using any laundry detergents that contain optical brighteners. Optical Brighteners make the ABU more detectable by night vision equipment and make the ABU more visible in a low-light environment of any kind, by reflecting more of any available light. Optical brighteners are chemicals that absorb the ultraviolet and violet region of colors in a fabric. They trick the eye into seeing a brighter shade and reflect more light. Near Infrared (nIR) capability of the ABU is degraded when washed with detergents containing optical brighteners. Because most commercial detergents contain optical brighteners, there is generally no indication on the packaging. The Airman Battle Uniform (ABU) is the service-distinctive camouflage battledress uniform for the United States Air Force Mineral Oil MINERAL OIL as used in Cosmetics. This is the top moisturising ingredient for face creams, suntan lotions, hand & body lotions, lipsticks, shaving creams as well as similar baby products. The big manufacturers love the stuff --- it is colourless, odourless, tasteless and VERY CHEAP. It also binds well with other ingredients to form a smooth, creamy lotion. Mineral Oil softens the skin by holding water in. A film is formed over the skin to lock moisture in. However, it also traps in toxins and waste while hindering normal skin respiration as it keeps Oxygen out. The retained toxins help encourage acne and other skin disorders. Toxins have also been found in lymphoid and breast tissue of breast cancer sufferers. The slow down in skin function results in premature aging of the skin. Mineral Oil is Motor Oil that has been more refined. As far back as 1980 there was concern about the carcinogenic properties of some mineral oil based products. Small doses given to rats meant that they died. By the way, the rats never gave their permission. Why not test on the faceless ones who run the cosmetic industry? Mineral oil can be contaminated with cancer causing PAH s (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons.) These are molecules derived from coal, tar and oil and are known to be cancer causing. Apparently, the Aromatic bit is slightly wrong as they Stink !! Mineral Oil is so very cheap, available and is a good emulsifier. Just what the big boys crave. When you realise that mass produced Baby Oil is a form of Motor Oil with Fragrance ( another Dodgy character ) added, it all gets scary. Most skincare products contain this rubbish. The EU has not exactly covered itself in glory when it comes to sorting suspect ingredients out, but they look really good compared to the USA. In recent years the EU has banned 1100 chemicals from skincare products. The USA has put the block on just NINE !!. Does Big Business talk ? No, it SHOUTS ! Sodium Laurel Sulphate Now for the Bad Guys. So many on the Hit List but let's start with one of the mass producers favourite ingredients------Sodium Laurel Sulphate. A really dodgy character used in so many household and personal cleaners and beloved by the big boys as it cleans and produces bubbles CHEAPLY. Used in soaps, shampoos (including children's), face & body washes, toothpaste, washing up and laundry detergents AND ENGINE DEGREASERS. You really want to put this stuff on your body, don't you? The big worry with SLS (as with so many Nasties) is that it has the potential to combine with other ingredients to form nitrosamines which are known to be cancer causing. It is commonly used in research as a standard irritant to test the viability of new products. Just 2% of SLS can increase skin thickness, can cause irritation (surprise, surprise) and inflammation; some shampoos contain 50% SLS ----YUK. Even the top of the range producers may have this "cheapy creepy" in their expensive ranges. SLES Sodium Laureth Sulfate or S.L.E.S comes under the spotlight this month. We have been asked if this is the same as S.L.S so I thought it would be right to kick this into touch. It is indeed a very close relative of Sodium Laurel Sulfate but the E stands for Ether. Like SLS, this ingredient is widely used in soaps, shampoos, detergents,toothpastes and other "foam up" items. Both are esters of Sulphuric acid ( lubbly jubbly.) Laureth is often contaminated with Dioxane, a known carcinogen. While not as irritant as SLS, Laureth cannot be metabolised by the liver so any effects are longer lasting. Some soaps have concentrations of SLES as high as 30% which The American College of Toxicology (ACT) describe as "highly irritating and dangerous." Shampoos are among the most widely reported products to the FDA -Food And Drug Administration - in the USA. Problems include eye irritation, tangled hair, itchy scalp, swelling to the face and hands, split and frizzy hair. Like SLS, it does produce masses of bubbles and is cheap. It also goes into car degreasers and car washes. In much the same way it dissolves grease on a car engine so it acts on our skin, causing a drying effect. It is documented that SLES denatures skin proteins. This not only causes irritation, but allows contaminants to get into the lower more sensitive skin layers. It is also absorbed on application to the skin. Once this happens it may mimic the hormone Oestrogen leading to problems ranging from PMS and Menopausal symptoms to lowering Male fertility and increasing Breast cancers. The body no longer controls it's own Oestrogen levels . Again, like SLS, it is used in clinical testing as an IRRITANT to identify the usefulness of new products ! It is an unfortunate fact that even products labelled as Natural can have this Badmash among it's ingredients. It means rogue or knave. Always, at least, read the label. Better still buy ethical Paraffin Candles Paraffin based candles, all of them, even those that cost a bomb and are drooled over by those presenters on the shopping channels. During 2001, the American Lung Association warned that petroleum based candles are a common, yet unrecognized, source of poor indoor air quality. Black Soot Deposition ( BSD ) damages interiors and contents as well as harming skin and lungs. It aggravates respiratory illnesses. Ingredients like paraffin, colourants, synthetic fragrances and lead wicks do the damage. Did you know that paraffin is the second last product in petroleum refining? Asphalt is the very last….Nice ! The grayish black residue has the gungy colour removed using 100 % strength bleach. This creates dioxins that are harmful to our environment. So, some very heavy stuff wafting around your home. What to do ? Well, how about trying pure beeswax and/or soy candles from a genuinely Natural source. That way you get the best from a candle; soft lighting in a healthy atmosphere, exquisite scents from REAL essential oils or Nature's honey, plus the knowledge that you are not harming yourself or your home Triclosan Triclosan is in the dock this month. Hailed for its anti-bacterial qualities and found in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, deodorants, toothpastes, washing liquids and some plastics and tiles; this is a wolf in sheep's clothing. It is common in many so-called anti- bacterial products yet there is doubt over the long term anti-bacterial effect as the bacteria can mutate, become resistant and therefore more dangerous. Triclosan is a Chlorophenol, registered by the United States Environment Protection Agency as a pesticide. Chlorophenols are also "persistent pollutants and suspected carcinogens." Just the stuff to scrub the old gnashers with or pile on to your bright apple cheeks. In the USA a group of Girl Scouts grew some bacteria as part of a project. At the end of their experiments they tried to kill the bacteria with Triclosan. The bacteria started to grow, effectively mutating. They actually produced super germs. Reported to cause skin irritation, triclosan is linked to Dioxins, which are carcinogenic chemicals. These chemicals may cause weakening of the immune system, decreased fertility, altered sex hormones, birth defects and cancer. Dioxins can be found in Triclosan as manufacturing impurities. Very worrying is the fact that interaction with tap water forms chlorinated dioxins and these may be forming in kitchen sinks. Other studies have found that mixing Triclosan and water produces Chloroform which may be a human Carcinogen. We gave up on chemical toothpastes some time back and now use a natural one that we buy in the Farmacia in San Ginesio where we have our apartment. I keep meaning to look it up and see if we can get it here. In the meantime we always bring back a plentiful supply. About 97% of Triclosan products go down the drain. Treatment plants cannot remove it and large quantities are discharged into the local waterways. The E.P.A (Environmental Protection Agency ) gives this Baddie high scores as a risk to human and environmental health. I just checked back on my research and found an article from the Evening Standard dated April 2005 about triclosan being in some of the very top selling toothpastes and the cancer worry. You will find this at www.thisislondon.co.uk. Well worth reading. P.E.G.'s P.E.Gs or PolyEthylene Glycol polymers. These ingredients can be listed as Polyethylene Glycol, but more likely as P.E.G followed by a number, maybe PEG -7, PEG-32, PEG-150 or a host of other numbers. Found in many cosmetic and personal care items most PEGs are made using Oxiraine, which can cause Dioxanes during the manufacturing process and these are carcinogenic. Many PEGs appear to be very toxic when in contact with damaged or wounded skin, yet PEG-8, in particular, is found in so-called "simple, no fuss Acne Washes." The American Breast Cancer Fund gives it a High Risk rating. These synthetic chemical compounds have been found to contain iron, lead, nickel, cobalt, cadmium and arsenic. Great stuff to be slapping on ourselves! PEGs act as cleansing agents, skin conditioners and emulsifiers and are used extensively in the cosmetics trade. Synthetic polymers do NOT give "baby soft skin." They only coat the skin with film-like substances that give the appearance of smoothness. Manufacturers work on the assumption that these chemicals will be washed off and so are not harmful. The International Agency For Research on Cancer set up a working group which reported that workers exposed to PEG ingredients such as Ethylene Oxide showed an increased level of leukemia. Shoppers who buy these cosmetics will also be exposed to small amounts of E/O, as well as bolstering companies whose workers are at risk. A known carcinogen, 1,4 Dioxane, has contaminated PEG compounds on a regular basis. Studies show that it easily penetrates the skin. It can be present in many cosmetics but really worrying is the fact that it is in children's shampoo. The National Toxicology Program declares "1,4-dioxane is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen." To end here are a few percentages of products, in common use, that have PEGs in them. Baby Bath Washes ----- 73% of what is on the market. Baby Lotion------------- 46.4% Deodorants-------------- 42.7% Mousse------------------- 90.3% Very scary. Issued by the Environmental Working Group, an American non profit making organization set up in 1993 to protect health, especially the health of children. So, Peggy isn't a good old girl; just another jack-pudding ( maybe jill-pudding in this case !) It means deceiver. I hope that pleases the ladies at Naturally Clean who liked "slubberdegullion" in the last newsletter. Palm Oil I was going to name Palm Oil as this month's Baddie, not the oil itself, but because of the harm done to the orangutans and other animals along with their habitats in the manufacture of it. However, a short way into my research I found the whole subject so distressing that I gave up. Man's treatment of his fellow creatures is often appalling. What is happening in the East Indies, where much of the Palm Oil comes from, is a sickening, shameful disgrace. If you want to find out what I mean it's all there on the net. Even so, be warned, it really is heart breaking. As an Australian web site puts it---STOP THE CHOP. Phosphates This month I want to take a look at a baddie that harms the planet as change from talking about the nasties harming us as humans. Phosphates were quite a high profile issue some thirty years back. Lakes and rivers started to get choked with slimy vegetation that began killing off other plant life as well as fish and other aquatic animals. It was found that the widespread use of phosphates in laundry products was producing the nutrients for the algae to feed on. This resulted in the oxygen being used up at a rate that meant other water dwellers slowly died off. Manufacturers reduced or eliminated phosphates from laundry products, BUT no action was taken with regard to dish washing detergents. Phosphates are still found in detergents, bathroom cleaners & floor strippers. The average consumer uses 30 lbs of detergent per year-----according to figures from the USA. It is used in dish washing items to soften water and most machine dish washing detergents also contain high doses of chlorine based sanitizing ingredients. So, not just harmful to the planet. Phosphates find their way into the water table, rivers, lakes and oceans when released back into the environment. Most major brands contain phosphates, some times listed on the label as STPP or Sodium Tripolyphosphate. Yes, the old trick, hard to pronounce so don't bother to check. Well, check this one because it is one of the worst ocean polluters Cocamide DEA COCAMIDE DEA is a clear to amber viscous liquid made from the fatty acids found in coconut oil which is reacted with DIETHANOLAMINE. This ingredient is used in shampoos and bathroom products as a foaming agent. It is also used as an emulsifier in cosmetics. The Diethingummy bit ( the mass producers love those long words, hoping we won't bother to check such ridiculous names ) is a chemical used as a wetting agent in shampoos, lotions, creams and other cosmetics. Not known to be dangerous by itself BUT it can react with other components in that pretty bottle on the bathroom shelf to form a nasty carcinogen. The Washington State Nurses Association stated in a Summer 2006 report that Cocamide DEA can cause contact dermatitis and is an irritant. It is under investigation as a cancer causing agent. The Canadian National Research Council has said " there is no toxic information available for more than 80 % of chemicals in everyday- use products." Cocamide, the word sounds almost cuddly; the association with coconut lulls us into a false sense of security. It's meant to. Chlorine Bleach Chlorine Bleach is found in dishwash detergents, chlorinated disinfectant cleaners, mildew removers and toilet bowl cleaners amongst a whole range of household cleaners. It was first discovered by the Swedish chemist Carl Scheele in 1774. However he failed to publish his findings at the time and Sir Humphrey Davy beat him to the punch. He also discovered oxygen before Joseph Priestley but again failed to publish before the Englishman. The French chemist Claude Berthollet noted the bleaching qualities and invented Hypochlorite bleach in 1789. In France it is known as Eau De Javel after the village where it was made. Javel is a village west of Paris and a factory was opened there in1777 to produce javel or bleach to us. Chlorine should NEVER be mixed with other cleaning products as it can cause harmful acids which, in turn, release poisonous gases. Breathing in the fumes released by these products can be really harmful, especially to those with respiratory problems. Undiluted, it will burn skin and damage clothing. It does not degrade and stays forever ( if only England's batsmen could.) Only a very small percentage is detectable as an odour. Dishwashers are a source of worry as they send out a steamy chemical cloud as soon as the door is opened. Chlorine is also toxic to animals and plants. So, what to do ? The answer can be found in this months Goodie Formaldehyede We take a look at Formaldehyde in this edition. It is used as a preservative in many personal and household cleaners such as shampoos, anti-perspirants, deodorants, hair sprays and air fresheners. Fabrics labeled "wrinkle free" are often treated with formaldehyde. This includes non iron sheets, bedding and sleepwear-especially polyester/cotton blends marketed as Easy Care or Permanent Press. Some modern furniture made of pressed wood emits formaldehyde along with other chemicals. This dodgy character is an irritant to eyes, throat and lungs. Even worse, it is a suspected carcinogen. In 1995 the International Agency for Research classified formaldehyde as a known cancer causing agent. Before that it had been classed as a probable carcinogen by the U S Environmental Protection Agency in 1987. Yes, twenty years ago and still this awful stuff is fouling our lives. Most of my research has been gleaned from American and Canadian sources but I found this on the Cancer Research UK site and it makes interesting reading. "Formaldehyde is a smelly chemical used to kill bacteria, preserve dead bodies and manufacture other chemicals. It is one of the substances in tobacco smoke most likely to cause diseases in our lungs and airways....Formaldehyde is also a known cause of cancer. It is believed that even the small amounts in second hand smoke could increase our lifetime risk of cancer...Tobacco smoke is one of our major sources of formaldehyde exposure. Places where people smoke can have three times the normal levels of this poison." So, a really nasty piece of work, but it does a good job for those mass producers out there, the grey suits lurking in the shadows. However, there are some absolutely natural preservatives that perform just as well and are safe. Among them is Vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant that preserves and stops things becoming rancid. Essential oils, Honey, Lemon and Salt are all natural preservatives. There really is no need to use suspect substances such as formaldehyde. Leave it in the mortuary where it belongs. VOC's1 VOLATILE ORGANIC VAPOURS-V O C s. Don't be fooled by the organic bit. VOCs do contain carbon and are therefore referred to as organic. However, this only goes to show how even the most innocent of words can be misleading. There is nothing organic, as we would understand the word, about these slubberdegullions (looked that up in Rogets-love the sound of the word. It means rogue.) They contain solvents such as ethanol, methanol, propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol and glycol ethers, which release VOCs into the air. Volatile means they vaporize at room temperature. When sprayed the small particles are easily inhaled and contribute to ground level Ozone---the O word ! The fumes can cause drowsiness, breathing difficulties, asthma attacks, headaches and intoxication. Long term exposure can damage the nervous system and may cause cancer. Some VOCs are eye and skin irritants. If you see "volatile " on the label, it is crucial that, before using the product, the area is well ventilated. As VOCs release vapours slowly, in storage they will create toxins steadily in the house. They have left a lasting legacy of ground water pollution. These nasties are found in many liquid cleaners and household products. They are also present in paints, paint strippers, pesticides, building materials, furnishings, office equipment (copiers and printers) and craft materials (glues, markers and adhesives.) Phenoxyethanol This month we take a look at PHENOXYETHANOL, which takes longer to pronounce than it does to write about ( I did read, a while back, that if you can't pronounce it, don't buy it. Good advice. ) Phenoxyethanol is an organic chemical compound, but "not organic as we know it, Jim "---- as Mr Spock would say. It is a colourless, oily liquid with moderate water solubility. Used a lot as a fixative for perfumes, this organic "loose fish" (it means bad lot) is also found in insect repellents. Other uses are as an antiseptic, as a solvent for cellulose acetate and in dyes, inks and resins. In cosmetics it is used as a preservative. When used the advice is always to wear safety glasses and ensure very good ventilation ------ alarm bells clanging there. Governmental, industrial and academic studies have linked Phenoxyethanol to development and reproductive toxicity. There are concerns about a broad range of health problems from infertility and reproductive organ cancers to birth defects and delays in children's development. It may well harm the immune system and cause allergies. Results of this are allergic reactions and reduced capacity to fight disease. It can also be contaminated with toxic impurities. Strongly suspected as a hazard in the workplace through handling the chemicals and therefore a long term health problem. Makers of Phenoxyethanol themselves state that it is "harmful if swallowed, inhaled or absorbed through the skin. May cause reproductive problems and is an eye irritant." When challenged they will say this is only for high doses but very little info is available from them. You have to look to other researchers to get a balanced view. Phenoxyethanol can be found in anti-aging formulas, facial moisturisers, sun screen, hand cream and face cleaners. The American Environmental Working Group ( EWG ) on their web site Skin Deep class some concealers, eye makeup, foundation products, lip balms and sunless tanning items with a mark of TEN. Seven to ten is considered highly hazardous. This suspect is supposed to be restricted for use in the USA, EU, Canada and Japan, but the wording of guidelines allows manufacturers a lot of leeway. I have just had a look at the items we buy for our research. They are kept in a small cupboard in the bathroom and provide valuable clues. I checked on a well known baby lotion, an own brand hair conditioner, a so called Natural hand and body lotion and an up market body cream. All have our Baddie in them. How much? Who knows, they don't tell you. Some of these products also had SLS and dollops of Parabens in them. More worrying was that I also checked a couple of skin care items that are highly thought of and assumed to be entirely natural --- both had Phenoxyethanol in them. We've said it before and now again. It's so important to read the label. 2-Butoxyethanol 2 - Butoxyethanol is our target. Also known as Ethylene Glycol Butyl Ether, so it definitely comes under the banner of If You Can't Spell It Or Pronounce It, Don't Buy It. This is a colourless, sweet smelling liquid - useful to those wishing to enhance suspect products. Mainly used as a solvent in carpet cleaners and speciality cleaners. It can be inhaled or absorbed through the skin and may cause liver and kidney problems as well as blood disorders. After long term exposure, it is suspected that it may well lead to reproductive problems. 75 % of what is produced goes into paints, coatings, inks and cleaning products. It is a primary ingredient in white board cleaners, liquid soaps, cosmetics, dry cleaning solutions, lacquers and herbicides. It also kills most insects. Unfortunately, it can't distinguish between butterflies and locusts or between bees and fleas. In the United States, employers must warn their workers when they are working with 2- Butox; yes, even the Bushmen expressed concern about it. Those exposed to it in high doses have complained of eye and nose irritation, headaches, vomiting and a metallic taste in the mouth. Even so, manufacturers of cleaning products DO NOT have to list everything on their labels. This makes it very hard to be certain that the product you choose is free of suspect ingredients. This dodgy character is included on the Californian List of Toxic Air Contaminants. The upside is that it does decompose relatively quickly and does not harm the environment as much as some of the other nasties found in household cleaners. There are NO Carcinogenic studies to say what the cancer risk is. However, there are ongoing tests amid genuine concern over BE, which is what the various official bodies call it. The fact that it can be found in toothpaste, deodorants and shampoos should ensure that testing comes up with results sooner rather than later; probably later. As a footnote to the Baddie, I've noticed lately, while checking the Home and Personal cleaning shelves in the supermarkets, that a lot of the mass produced products now have some very strange sounding ingredients on the label. At the same time the dodgy ingredients that the public are beginning to learn about are starting to disappear. So just what are these New Kids On The Block ? It would seem that I have a whole new avenue to research. Hypoallergenic Hypoallergenic is a term coined by advertisers (based on the Greek prefix hypo meaning "below normal" or "slightly") and first used in a cosmetics campaign in 1953.NETQUOTEVAR:1 It is used to describe items (especially cosmetics and textiles) that cause or are claimed to cause fewer allergic reactions GOODIES Excerpts from our Newsletters - Read down and find the Baddies!! Virgin Argan Oil The latest Goodie is.......Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa) This one is relatively unknown but, on researching it, I found it to be a Giant in the world of essential oils. The Argan tree has been closely connected to the Berber people of Morocco for hundreds of years. It has provided them with food, building materials, charcoal and firewood. Not only has it been a dietary staple, its’ medicinal properties have been harnessed over the centuries. This oil was sold in markets around the production area before the Phoenicians began trading there. The tree dates back to the planet’s Tertiary Period, which ended about one and a half million years ago; I vaguely remember that ! Argania Spinosa ( wasn’t she an Italian opera singer ? ) is hardy, deep rooted and well adapted to the severe conditions it grows in. At one time the tree covered most of North Africa, but now it is endangered. Goats climb the tree to graze and the locals have long taken the wood for many uses and there are less than half the number of trees left compared to 50 years ago. However, it is now protected by UNESCO and steps are being taken to stop the damage. Money has been provided to manage the trees and to promote the oil in a global market. The local population is being made aware of the value of the trees with the emphasis on careful grazing and stopping the cutting down of trees for firewood. A large area has been classed as Protected and grazing in the trees is banned from May to August, the period when the fruit ripens to a bright yellow. The early green fruits are oval shaped and contain up to three kernels. Berber women go out, collect the fruit and then have the hard task of breaking the shells to get at the kernels. The women sit on the floor with rectangular stones between their knees and crack the kernels using rounded rocks. This particular shell is one of the hardest known, so a tiring and long winded job. The kernels resemble sliced almonds and are rich in oil. They are then removed and gently roasted, if for edible use. This accounts for part of the oil's distinctive, nutty flavour. After this they are pressed to get the oil. It takes several days and about 32 kilograms of fruit - about one season's crop from a single tree - to make just one litre of oil. The cosmetic oil, rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, comes from raw unroasted kernels. It is used for massage, facials and as an ingredient in anti-aging cream. All Natural and Organic Argan sold today is produced by a women's cooperative that shares the profits among the local women of the Berber tribe. They use traditional methods to produce their oil. They have had a bumpy journey in the face of Big Business who muscled in when the true value of the oil was recognised. I won’t go into it now but a visit to www.worldartisanguild.com/ucfa.html is well rewarded when you learn the story of these brave women and the men who put the hopes and rights of the indigenous people above corporate greed and injustice. With help, the women have started an ecosystem to ensure the trees are renewed, making sure the supply of oil does not run out. The money they earn helps support them and their families as well as providing education and healthcare for the whole community. The oil has health properties and other uses that make it very popular. It contains many antioxidants and is rich in vitamin E so it’s an important ingredient for making skin creams and other cosmetic products. The rich and nutty aroma of Argan means it’s popular with some chefs as a rather exotic ingredient. Most of the oil is bottled pure to be used in cooking. It goes well with salads, fish and meat dishes and is used as a special dip for bread. The residue from the traditional method of extraction forms a thick brown paste called “Amlou” which is sweetened with honey or sugar. It then has peanuts and almonds mixed in before being served at breakfast as a bread dip. The oil used in cooking is darker than the one used in cosmetics, due to the roasting. The cosmetic oil is a light golden colour. Argan oil contains 80% unsaturated fatty acids, is rich in essential fatty acids and is more resistant to oxidation than olive oil.. The unroasted oil is traditionally used as a treatment for skin diseases, and has found favour with European cosmetics manufacturers. Let’s hope they give due respect to the Berber women before they poke their noses in the trough. Among its’ cosmetic properties, Argan oil softens, nourishes and regenerates the skin. It heals damaged hair and nails while being a very good moisturiser. Good for facials, it can also be used in a massage. Argan oil contains twice as much Vitamin E as olive oil. On the medicinal side, it helps reduce swelling and pain as well as lowering cholesterol. Being anti inflammatory, the oil helps relieve rheumatism. It can even be used as lamp oil. It seems that the world is learning just how good Argan is. It will remain a rare and expensive oil due the size of the growing area and the labour intensive production chain. We use Bio-degradable bubblewrap The bublewrap we use is made of oxo-biodegradable polymers. Oxo-biodegradation is a two stage process in which, first the plastic is converted by reaction with oxygen to molecular fragments that are water solible and second, this smaller molecules are biodegraded by microorganism. Lavender Lavender is a giant among the good guys. It is one of the most versatile and popular of all essential oils, with so many uses. A member of the mint family and native to the Mediterranean in particular, lavender oil is mainly produced in France, Spain, Italy, Bulgaria, England, Turkey, Greece, Australia & U.S.A. Perfume note is top / middle, while the aroma is fresh and sweet, floral and herbaceous yet slightly fruity. Just a little about how Lavender oil is extracted. Steam distillation is the most suitable way to extract essential oil from lavender. The distillation vessels range from battered copper containers to modern stainless steel ones. Lavender is usually harvested in the morning and allowed to partially dry for a few hours before loading it into the distillation vessel. When full, the pot is sealed and low-pressure steam is introduced into the bottom of the vessel and forced through the plants drawing off the essences in the process. This steam, loaded with the precious oil, is then cooled and returned to the liquid state. The mixture of water and essential oil is collected and separates due to their different densities - the essential oil is lighter and rises to the top, floating above the aromatic water which becomes the Hydrolat or Floral Water. On average it can take 60 lb of good Lavender flowers to yield 16 fluid ounces of oil. This procedure was inherited from the Arab world and is the most widely used. It has undergone technical improvements, but in essence ( Oh No !) has remained unchanged since the start. Lavender is known to repel insects, including fleas. It can be used as a condiment in cooking, helps prevent colic, spasms and faintness. It is also recommended as an aid to appetite and to prevent flatulence…… helpful at both ends…. of the meal ! Lavender is deodorant, antiseptic and helps ease stress, itching, burns, cuts and acne. Often described as the "aspirin of aromatherapy" this master of all trades has been documented for over 2000 years. Elisabeth Tudor wanted lavender conserve and fresh lavender flowers every day. Bet that gave the gardener a headache! Mind you, if he failed he wouldn't have a head to ache. Queen Victoria and Elizabeth 2nd have both used lavender products. Is lavender the reason for the longevity of these three sovereigns? May Chang May Chang - Litsea Cubeba And so to Goody of the Month. It was tempting to choose Bill Oddie after his sterling efforts on Spring Watch, but we decided on something even sweeter and prettier! May Chang, also known as Litsea Cubeba, comes from the citrus family. The tree is a native of China but is also cultivated in Taiwan and Japan. It's the fruit that are distilled to produce the oil which has a sweet lemony scent with floral undertones. May Chang is noted for it's "uplifting and stimulating" qualities and creates a sunny aura. It also disinfects and deodorises with excellent results; so a Right Little Clever Clogs, in fact!. Which is why we included it in our Re-Fresh Fabric deodorizer. It is similar to Lemongrass Melissa, and May Chang blends nicely with Chamomile, Geranium, Lavender, Myrrh and Patchouli Organic Castile Soap Organic Castile Soap is our choice for this edition. True soap is derived from natural oil and fats. Some so-called soaps are synthetic detergents made from crude petroleum. Genuine Castile soap is made from vegetable oil rather than animal fats. It probably originated from the Kingdom of Castile in Spain and may have been the very first hard white soap. All this happened around 1567. It cleans gently and effectively and is really mild as well as being totally biodegradable. Pure Castile soap is perfect for those with chemical sensitivities. Patchouli Our Goodie this month is Patchouli, known to it's pals as Pogostemon Cablin; I think we'll stick with Patchouli. The Latin name sounds like some Eastern European pop singer. The Patchouli plant is a bushy herb that will grow to a height of between 2 and 3 feet and the oil is made from the dried leaves. They are steam distilled and this gives a high yield of oil. The scent is heavy and strong, rich and earthy with woody tones. It is a base note and the oil has a thick to medium consistency. Patchouli has long been grown in the East and West Indies and flourishes in Southern climates and the seed bearing flowers are very fragrant. It has been used for centuries to make perfume, in spite of it's pungent scent. Being heavy, Patchouli acts well as a fixative to hold lighter scents in soap making and perfumery. Because of it's pungency it is not a favourite with some aromatherapists. In the 1960s and 70s, however, it was very popular with the flower power generation who used it to cover the smell of burnt cannabis. During the 18th and 19th centuries Chinese traders would pack their silk goods in Patchouli leaves to prevent moths from laying eggs. This oil is now widely used in the more expensive perfumes, particularly in men's fragrances where it is found in more than half of those made. It can be used as a conditioner for dreadlocks ---- better this on your bonce than some of the things available today. Patchouli oil is reputed to have anti-depressant, anti-imflammatory, anti-microbal, antiseptic and deodorant properties. It helps sort out acne, dermatitis, fatigue, stress and it repels insects. All in all, a really good guy Sandalwood This month's Goodie is Sandalwood oil, made from the highly scented wood of trees found in India, Sri Lanka, Hawaii, Australia and East Indies. The tree, of the Santalum family, is evergreen and grows to a height of 30 feet. It has dull yellow to maroon flowers that turn to dark red and black fruits. At present the trees are considered to be endangered and the Indian government has put in controls to prevent over harvesting. However, the wood is very expensive and neer- do- wells still find ways to cut the trees illegally and smuggle the wood out of the country. The state of Mysore, in Southern India, is reckoned to produce the very best trees. By the way, please beware any cheap products that waffle on about being scented with Sandalwood. There are chemical alternatives and they are widely used. Judith really gets her Grumpy Knickers on whenever she spots these items. Sandalwood has been recorded for over 4,000 years in the East Indian region for making perfume and is one of the oldest ingredients. It has long been used to scent incense and perfumes and Arab shopkeepers traded with travelling Indian merchants to seel the prized Sandalwood in 8th century Baghdad. The Chinese used it to help cure stomach pains and vomiting. It is said to have been used in Ceylon in the embalming of the Royal Princes since the 9th century. Some temples in India, built of Sandalwood, have retained the scent for centuries. To produce premium quality oil with high levels of fragrance, the trees have to be at least 40 years old, but 80 year old trees are preferred. They are harvested by toppling the whole tree as the valuable base wood and roots can be used. The oil is extracted by steam or water distillation using the Heartwood, the innermost and oldest wood. Sandalwood essential oil has a striking woody base (surprise, surprise ) with a fresh, bright edge. A manly sort of chap! It is used to treat anxiety and is popular in medicine as it has antimicrobial properties. Only during the last century has it been widely used in European and American perfumes and it is now used in soap making, detergents, creams, lotions and incense. The Ancients (no, not my friends; even older than that) thought that sandalwood fragrance brought one closer to the divine. Judith uses Sandalwood Mysore ("price on application" from our essential oil supplier which tells us how expensive it is) and I've just had the bottle wafted under my trunk. I must say it is heavenly. Eucalyptus I'm dedicating this one to a couple of Australian friends who live in Italy and were such a great help to us whenever we had problems. We have stayed in contact and we took our grandchildren to see them in August last year. Wonderful people and true friends. So, Ally and Lorraine, this is for you with love and thanks. It is, of course, Eucalyptus that very versatile of oils. It was distilled in Australia in the late 18th century to help with chest problems. Eucalyptus helps cool the body in summer and is a protection in cold weather. This oil is anti-inflammatory, antibiotic, diuretic, analgesic and deodorising. Best known for treating coughs and colds, it also helps treat diabetes and sunburn as well as being an insect repellant. The tree, Eucalyptus Globus, is evergreen and can grow to 90 metres high. It is native to Australia and Tasmania, but is now grown elsewhere. There are other types of Eucalyptus but we are talking about Blue Gum here. The oil is obtained by steam distillation. The spent leaves are left to dry in the sun and some of this residue is used to fire the boilers used in distillation. The rest is sold to parks and gardens as mulch. Australian aborigines have long used the leaves to bind and heal wounds. I wonder if it would heal Flintoff and Company's wounded pride. No, let's not go there. I can feel the bile rising already. The Blue Mountains of New South Wales are so called because of the blue haze exuded from the resin of eucalyptus gum which shrouds the landscape. All in all, a bonzer character. As a foot note, this oil is useful in removing tar or oil stains on clothing English Chamomile - Roman This month we've turned to a local hero, English Chamomile, probably The Chamomile. The Germans may well disagree as German chamomile is also highly thought of. Whatever; these two are recognized as the best of the family. English Chamomile, Anthemis Nobilis, is one of the oldest herbs and has been grown for centuries in English gardens. Native to Europe and North West Asia, it is well travelled. The Egyptians dedicated it to their Gods, believing in its virtue; they used it as a cure for Ague, most likely Acute Fever. Chamomile has long been used for domestic medicines as a lotion to treat toothache, earache and neuralgia. It is also used for treating stress, acne, insect bites, boils, indigestion and hair care. No wonder the Germans call it " Alles Zutraut "---capable of anything. Culpepper described it as "profitable to ease agues, sprains, jaundice and dropsy." Chamomile has been called " The Plants Doctor " as it will revive sickly plants when planted near them. The Romans used this herb for incense and in drinks. Pliny notes that the aroma is akin to quinces or apples. In Spain, it has been known for centuries as Mantazilla or " Little Apple " and is used to flavour light sherry. The word Roman associated with it has nothing to do with The Roman Empire period. It appears that a plant collector in the 19th century found some growing in the Colosseum in Rome and gave it the name. Chamomile is a low growing, creeping or trailing plant. The root is perennial, jointed and fibrous, while the stems are hairy and branching with fine leaves that give a feathery appearance. Blooms appear from July to September. It is the flower heads that are steam distilled to produce the oil which has a strong scent, a pale blue colour which turns yellow with keeping and is a middle note. It's aromatic fragrance belies the bitter taste. When walked on the herb gives off a glorious smell. Clinical trials have proved that Ch. Creams are as effective as certain steroid creams to relieve skin inflammation. Two final points. Using chamomile on blonde hair is supposed to make it blonder and used with a prosperity charm it will make you rich. I can't comment on the first as what's left of my hair is rapidly greying. As to the second, unfortunately, our local Coop store no longer stocks prosperity charms so I can't confirm that! Earth Friendly Bleach Earth Friendly Bleach which does not harm us, the world of animals or the world in general. It is compatible with other natural household cleaning products. It is made from Sodium Percarbonate, which is a naturally occurring mineral with no environmental hazards. It breaks down to oxygen, water and soda ash after use. Unlike its nasty chemical cousin, it does not cause yellowing or fabric weakness. Not only fabric safe but colour safe as well. In fact, it does brighten colours. It can be used to sanitize your washing machine, particularly if the machine is continuously used to wash nappies, and effectively removes stains in a wide temperature range. It is an excellent presoak for heavily stained items. The solution remains active for between 5 and 6 hours. As an added bonus, any unused liquid can be poured down drains, loos or sinks to clean and deodorize safely. Evict the Chlorine from your house and open up the way for a real good guy, Earth Friendly Bleach. Bergamot Bergamot is a real Jack of all Trades and Master of most of them. It is uplifting, balancing, refreshing and calming. Anxiety, stress, tension and depression are eased through Bergamot's sedative and antidepressant qualities. Among it's other properties are analgesic, antiseptic, carminative (expels wind and eases griping pain very good for those Party political broadcasts) benefits. Bergamot is also a deodorant, a disinfectant and an insecticide. Citrus Bergamia, an odd shaped fruit, grows on a small tree of the Rue family that reaches about four and a half metres high under cultivation. It is native to Asia and Italy. It gets its name from Bergamo, a lovely hill town in the Northern region of Lombardy where the oil was first sold. Reggio Calabria is the area that grows this little wonder and it is cultivated on a narrow strip of land just 60 miles long. The first trees were planted in 1750. There are claims that Christopher Columbus brought the fruit back from the Canary Islands. Bergamot is the scented ingredient in real Eau De Cologne. It is also the flavouring agent in classic Earl Grey Tea. Taken from the rind, the oil is golden with a green tinge. It is thin and with a top note fragrance having the sharpness of lemon balanced by orange with floral tones. Although only the rind is used in oil production, the rest of the fruit is used to flavour juices. Welcome news is that, after years of falling prices due to chemical companies manufacturing synthetic fragrances, the Calabrians are fighting back. Knowing how good their product is they have formed cooperatives and the upsurge in awareness by concerned people has led to the real thing finding its way back on to the market. Great !! Bergamot does have a slight downside in that it is very Photosensitive and should not be used on the skin if going out in strong sunshine. That said, this is another of Nature's gifts and is a welcome addition to our store cupboard Lemongrass - Cymbopogon Citratus. Lemongrass is a scented grass native to India where it is known as " choomanu poolu " which refers to it's red stems. I thought he was a Chinese detective. It is also grown in the West Indies, Brazil, Sri Lanka and parts of Central Africa. A quick growing plant that will rise to 3 foot high, Lemongrass gives two crops per year. The thin oil is distilled from fresh and part dried stems by the steam method. These stems are finely chopped before distillation and the oil produced is yellow to reddish brown with a strong lemony scent--------Really ??? This fragrance is described as sharp but sweet with a refreshing quality, soooo like me. That will get me a clip round the ear when my favourite silver blonde reads it. Our sharp sweetie is a top note and blends well with chamomile, eucalyptus, geranium and lavender among others. Lemongrass properties include analgesic, antidepressant, antimicrobial, antiseptic, fungicidal, deodorant, sedative and tonic. A versatile Goodie, indeed. It is used to help with fevers, indigestion, stress and muscular pain. It is also used as a tissue toner, as an insect repellant and to deal with open pores. As with most oils, always dilute with a carrier oil or lotion. Lemongrass has long been used in Indian medicine to help with stomach and digestive problems. Effective against mosquitoes, particularly when blended with lavender, it can be used to soothe headaches by rubbing a dilution on the temples. Nowadays, Lemongrass is used to fragrance soaps, detergents and perfumes as well as flavouring some drinks. Exposure to air and light can lower the citral content. As a final good deed what remains after distillation is fed to cattle and other animals. A real Goodie. Peppermint Peppermint -Mentha Piperita This month we are lauding the qualities of Peppermint and, in particular, Mentha Piperita which is a natural hybrid of water mint and spearmint. It is an aromatic perennial plant that can grow to three feet high. The light purple flowers are complimented by green, serrated leaves. This plant grows throughout North America, Asia and Europe. It is harvested when just maturing which is when the oil content is at its highest. The oil is collected in the early morning because the noon-day sun can reduce the content. Being sterile, the plant spreads by rooting. Regarded as the world's oldest medicine, its use can be traced back for thousands of years. The ancient Chinese, Egyptians and North American Indians used its health promoting qualities. Pliny states that the Greeks and Romans crowned themselves with peppermint at feasts and sprays were placed on the tables. Their cooks flavoured food and wine with it. Peppermint came into use in Europe in the middle 18th century and was first used in England. The USA produces 75 % of the world's fresh supply and sends it all over the world. So they do export something better than Gung Ho loonies and rubbish children's TV shows. By the way, English oil is "incomparably" the best, according to the experts. So, Yah Boo to you, George Doubleyuh! The oil produced is thin and coloured clear to pale yellow, being a top note. It is extracted by steam distillation of the fresh or partly dried leaves. Peppermint oil is used a lot in aromatherapy where the key word is "cooling." The menthol fragrance will clear the mind and help concentration, while relieving tension and fatigue. A powerful oil, with many properties, Peppermint should be used with care, especially by pregnant women. This oil is an excellent digestive, helps with breathing problems and is anti - inflammatory and antiseptic. It also helps with flu, catarrh, varicose veins, headaches, and toothache. Yet another all round good egg. The oil can be used to flavour ice cream, sweets and chewing gum. Rats and mice don't like it and peppermint leaves have been laid in granaries to deter them. The flowers attract hosts of bees and butterflies, so this is a good thing to plant near cabbages etc to keep pests at bay. Because they forage the flowers heavily, bees will produce a mild honey if there are enough plants in the area. As a footnote, there is a Greek legend that says that the nymph Mentha attracted the attentions of Pluto, whose wife, Persephone, trod the poor girl into the ground. Pluto turned Mentha into a herb for all to appreciate forever. Pretty good for a dumb Disney dog! Frankincense Frankincense -Boswellia Carteri With more than a passing nod to the season we have selected Frankincense this month. This highly prized oil comes from the resin of the Boswellia Carteri tree - sounds like a couple of English solicitors pretending to be Italian. It is also known as Olibanum. The tree is small and originates from the Middle East and North Africa. It has many pinnacle leaves and white or pale pink flowers. The tree is hardy and can grow in the most extreme desert conditions, mainly in North East Africa and South East Arabia. To get at the resin, deep cuts are made in the trunk and the bark is peeled off in narrow strips. After a period of several weeks the gashes exude a milky juice which hardens on contact with the air. This results in an Aloe Gum resin. The oil is extracted by steam distillation and is a pale yellow to green in colour. The scent is pleasantly camphoric with a haunting woody, spicy smell. It is a base note. Along with Myrrh, it was the first gum to be used as incense. Ancient Egyptians made use of it as an offering to the Gods. Other cultures utilized the oil to fumigate sick rooms as it was thought to banish evil spirits. It was also applied to the face as part of a rejuvenating mask. The Hewbrews valued it highly and it is, of course, part of the Christmas story. Once considered as valuable as gold, it was much prized for its superb perfume. Ancient Arab countries made a very profitable trade out of Frankincense. Legends tell us that the Queen of Sheba made a long and dangerous journey to talk with King Solomon to ensure trade links with her country which was one of the the main suppliers. Nowadays, the oil is used in medicine and as a very good fixative in expensive perfumes. Recently, the oil has become difficult to get as drought spreads to its habitat whilst wars in production zones have made it almost impossible to collect the gum resin. Among its properties are antiseptic, astringent, carminative, healing, digestive, diuretic and tonic. It is non-toxic and non-irritant so used safely by most people. As it has a calming effect, the oil helps ensure inner peace. Frankincense soothes respiratory and urinary tracts and relieves such pains as rheumatism and muscular aches while easing skin ageing. It also slows down and deepens breathing and helps clear the lungs while dealing with shortness of breath, asthma, coughs and colds. Added to this, it can be effective with sores, wounds and scars. It really does deserve its reputation as one of the treasures from antiquity.